where does the wave break?
two contrary answers:
a) the wave breaks not in the part that is flowing backward, but when it is rising. When rising it collapses and after collapsing its water flows backward. unlike the water of the rising wave which also flows backward, however, this water flowing backward has no effect on the following wave.
b) the part of the rising wave that flows backward breaks, since the rising water of the following wave is stronger.
- why does something move?
- how can flowing water consume its momentum when it encounters an obstruction?
- why are the waves of descending rivers slower than the water flow of the river itself?
- why does a body move when something strikes it?
- under what conditions can a person on a see-saw not jump up?
- why does waves look like crescents when viewed from the side?
- what happens to the waves when water crashed into an obstacle?
- what effects do the slope of the obstruction and the angle of impact have?
- why doesn't viscous water flow continually throungh a bent pipe?
- does the weight of water vary according to how one changes the slope of a pipe filled with water?
- how can one see that movement separates from its cause?
- what causes cyclones?
- can a special dam influence the impact of the water?
- what must an especially strong dam look like?
- how can one simulate the collapse of a wave?
- how does air, once it is immersed, escape the water?
- what machine can be used to ram piles into the ground?